Notice to potential commissioners: I will no longer be accepting 3D printed models to paint. They are just too difficult to work with as compared to traditional plastic or cast resin models, which I will still accept. I am committed to ENJOYING the work of my hands, not making life more frustrating. LOL Thanks for understanding.

 

ALSO:  I WILL NOT STRIP MODELS, THEREFORE, I WILL NOT ACCEPT ANY MODEL THAT HAS ALREADY GOT PRIMER ON IT, OR A PAINTED MODEL - ONLY UNPRIMED RESINS OR ORIGINAL FINISH BREYER/STONE MODELS, ETC.

 

I PREFER PAYPAL for payment.  Also accept MONEY ORDERS 

 

Thanks for inquiring about my model commissions. The following is long, I know, but very important detailed stuff, so please read it all :)

 

Email me at Twhinnyacres@gmail.com 

VERY IMPORTANT: I prefer to communicate mostly by email and If you choose to commission me, please send an email with your NAME, and a CONTACT PHONE NUMBER as a backup communication in case email or fb messenger, or my computer goes haywire.

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• I paint ONLY APPALOOSA patterns - the more chrome the better! I reserve the right to decline a commission if I feel like I would not be able to accurately execute your chosen pattern to your satisfaction. I sure don't want any unhappy customers! :)  So, if your horse, or the pattern you have chosen, has minimal characteristics, - not readily recognizable as an Appaloosa (i.e. solid with no/or very small blanket, or just a few snow flakes) I will respectfully decline your commission. No reflection on your horse, but my technique of painting Appies doesn't lend itself well to those type patterns and I feel you will be happier with work done by an artist who specializes in solids and/or the "hair-by-hair" method of painting. My passion is painting Appies with lots of "chrome" and characteristics: spots, blankets, varnish roaning and mottling, etc. I also may decline your commission if the model you want to use is not one I would enjoy painting (for example, one with WAY too much hair!).  I will not accept models that have too much prep work to do, or models that have already been primered or have any kind of paint on them. If I'm not happy painting your model, I'm certain you wouldn't be happy with the results, either. Thank you for asking, but I hope you understand why I might turn down a commission. (FYI, I will also paint mules, donkeys, Longhorns, Brahmas or cows as long as they have an Appy-looking pattern :) )

 

• PORTRAITS of real Appaloosas is my specialty. But I will work from any other good photo references of your choice. NOTE: I will NOT duplicate another artist's existing work, but can do something similar from another reference. (For portraits I will need good sharp photos, from all angles, to ensure I capture all those yummy Appy details.) Clear pics of under tail mottling, belly, or any unusual markings appreciated as well. Close ups are needed, faces, as well as whole body shots that show actual color as accurately as possible. I do not guarantee I can match it perfectly, but I will certainly try my best.

 

• I paint TRADITIONAL SIZE ONLY models - (too hard for me to get all that Appy detail on a smaller one :) and WAY too hard to prep smaller sizes. I will paint on plastic models from Breyer, Peter Stone, Copperfox, etc. or unpainted artist resins, but no 3D printed models.

 

• LIGHT CUSTOMIZING (mane, tail and gender changes, etc. - maybe a leg position change if not too drastic) may be done for another additional charge (usually in the $25-$50 range, but could run as much as $75-$100 depending on complexity) agreed upon before beginning work. I do not do extreme customizing (complete body position changes, etc.) That is better left to experts! :)

 

• You may have a Breyer plastic horse on your shelf, or an unpainted artist resin that would make a good portrait of your special Appaloosa, or I can help you locate the perfect one for your portrait. I prefer for you to purchase/send your own model to me, but I sometimes have a few "bodies"  or blank resins on hand that may work. Just ask.

 

• For Model Horse Hobbyists: IF YOU PROVIDE THE MODEL, I PREFER it to be ALREADY PREPPED TO YOUR SATISFACTION…BUT NOT PRIMERED. I will not accept a model that has primer already on it. I do not do stripping, either. Have had problems with this in the past and I don’t want that to happen again. I prefer to do the primer myself to make sure there's no bad reaction with the materials I use.  I currently use Rustoleum 2X Flat White Plastic Primer and Krylon Matte Finish sealer and/or Testors DullCote. If your ready-to-go model doesn't meet my standard of preparation, I will want to do additional sanding, maybe carving of ears, add hoof growth rings and texture and carve hoof bottoms, etc. for more realism (there may be an additional charge if extensive extra prep work is required) before proceeding. Of course, I will discuss it with you first.

 

• PREPPING: If you don't prep the model yourself I can do it, no problem. Sometimes that is best, because I might see something that would hinder an Appy paint job in my technique, whereas others might not notice. And, as stated above, I like to carve hooves and add growth ring texture, etc. Prepping charges are hard to estimate because every model is different, but the avg. is $25-$35. If extensive prep work is needed could run $50-$75, more, or less, depending on the model itself. Older Breyers take more prepping than newer ones and some resins can take more than them all. But as a rule, I find that resins are easiest to prep. (I will not accept a 3D printed model.)

 

• MISC: I work in a smoke-free and pet-free environment indoors - I do have an outdoor dog and a real horse that may cause a stray hair or two to come inside with me LOL. I do often recycle some packing materials that may have come from such places. I also sometimes use recycled styrofoam egg cartons as packing material. Please inform me if you have any allergies and I will be sure to use new/different packing materials.

 

COST OF MODEL "Body": The cost of the model itself is IN ADDITION to the $600 cost of my finish work. (Unless you provide the model) I generally purchase models from Facebook model groups and Model Horse Connection, etc. at the lowest price possible. Plastics generally range from $20-$50, but some of the newer Breyer Premier Models can cost much more. Resins can be anywhere from $150-$350 or more for just a blank one! But the variety of poses and better details are in the resins. If I have to purchase the model I require the cost of the model in advance. If I supply one of my bodies I have on hand, its cost will be added to your total final pricing. I can work with you to find the best model/pose possible to represent your horse. 

 

For a good reference to see what Breyer models may be best for your portrait, visit ID Your Breyer and search through the Traditional size models. http://www.identifyyourbreyer.com/identify/traditional.htm

 

Here are some links to see some resins that may be available:

http://resinhorseeditions.blogspot.de/search/label/Adalee%20Velasquez

Click on artist name in righthand column to see their resins and the availability.

 

http://www.equineresindirectory.com/searchhorsegallery.asp?breedid=17

Scroll down to see the variety of different resin molds that have been cast and what they look like painted. 

 

Many of these may or may not still be available, but you can get the resin name and creating artist and research them on the web and possibly find one for sale on the secondary market.

 

Many unpainted resins and plastic "bodies" can be found for sale on this Model Horse sales page:

https://modelhorseconnection.com or any of several model horse sales groups on Facebook and, of course, Ebay.

 

You may see examples of my work by visiting my Facebook page where you can follow some in-progress work and see completed work in the photo albums there.

 https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010216024920  

 

• MAILING:  TRACKING NUMBERS ARE REQUIRED!

If you mail your own model to me PLEASE pack carefully, wrapped with LOTS of bubble wrap to fit comfortably snug, but not forced, in a box large enough to avoid rubbing or puncture damage, but not so large that the model shifts around a lot. Packing peanuts all around are also recommended.

 

DO NOT ship in flimsy USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate boxes - THEY ARE NOT STURDY ENOUGH TO KEEP DAMAGE FROM OCCURRING.

 

****PLEASE DO NOT MAIL MODEL TO ME WITHOUT CONTACTING ME FIRST AND SCHEDULING. I do not have a lot of shelf space, so I do not like to receive the model, or deposit, until just before I can begin working on it.

 

 

• DISCLAIMER TO MODEL HORSE HOBBYISTS: If you show, be aware that I DO NOT claim or guarantee my finish work to be live show quality competitive, but rather view it as an artistic interpretation of the Appaloosa; beautifully capturing all the unique details that make an Appaloosa an Appaloosa - yet not with the meticulous hair-by-hair, tiny brush strokes that has been the LSQ standard lately. Think of my style as "impressionistic realism" as opposed to "photo realism." Just want you to know that before you commit to something that you may not be happy with in the end. :) However, several of my Appy commissions have recently won their breed classes, as well as placed high or won in Workmanship classes, and a few have been named Overall Champions and Reserve Champions. And others have made the Top 5. So they "may" be considered LSQ - it's all relative :)

• Another note: I do not sign my work. Real horses do not have names written on them-just saying :) Just my personal preference. But I DO include a signed and dated certificate of authenticity card describing any custom/paint work I did.

 

TIME ESTIMATE & PAYMENT INFO:

• I will work on horses in the order in which I receive them AND have the deposit in hand, not necessarily in the order of the date the commission "deal" or inquiry was made.  I keep a list of people in order of when their "slot" is and contact them with enough advance warning for them to be able to ship and get their model and deposit to me in time to start right after I finish the current one in progress. If they can't meet that schedule for some reason, I will proceed to contact the next person on the list. Of course there could be some backing out, or re-shuffling of the schedule. Some patterns may take longer than others to complete, and/or unforeseen circumstances may arise that make it take longer to finish your model. Therefore I cannot PROMISE a "finished by" date, but can estimate very closely.

• Because I can USUALLY complete a model (once in hand) in 3-4 weeks or less, (extra time needed for extensive prep work or customization)  generally NO TIME PAYMENTS are accepted. I do require a deposit of $300 up front, but if I have to purchase the model, I will also need the purchase price in advance, then all the remaining charges of the balance of paint job, Shipping/Handling/Insurance (+ any pre-agreed upon charges for customization or extra prep work) will be due in full at the time of completion and upon your approval of the finished model. The balance MAY be split into two payments, if discussed and terms agreed upon beforehand, but long term time payments will not be accepted. 

• Final payment must be received before the finished model is shipped back to you. When I return the model to you I sometimes use the same box and packaging in which the shipped model comes to me  - so pack well! - use lots of bubble wrap around it and pack around it tightly enough that it doesn't rattle around (except for packing peanuts-sometimes they will rattle) when box is shaken. Don't want any broken ears, legs or tails! :) (Sometimes I can double-box for added safety, depending on the size of the boxes.)

• Extra time must be allowed for researching and purchasing the appropriate model (if I have to provide) and if any customization is to be done to the model - such as new mane, or tail, gender changes, etc. (extra charges for customization are based on time and complexity involved) Estimates of extra charges for customization should be discussed before final deal is made, so let me know of any changes you have in mind at the very beginning. Note: I do NOT do EXTREME customization or hairing.      

• SHIPPING INFO: I pack very well with lots of bubble wrap and peanuts, etc. and I TRY to double box when possible. Packing materials are not cheap, and my time is worth something, too, therefore my shipping, with extra insurance and special handling charges may seem high, but I prefer my models to arrive to you safe and sound. You get what you pay for, in my opinion. USPS recently went up on their rates as well. My shipping charge is currently $45 to continental US and Canada. (This includes extra insurance.) I "may" have to go up on shipping charges if the USPS goes up again.

• Overseas shipment is exact $ to location.

• I ship USPS to Continental US and Canada.  International buyers: Please note that import duties, taxes and charges are not included in the item price or shipping cost. These charges are the BUYER'S responsibility. Please check with your country's customs office to determine what these additional costs may be prior to a commission from me, so you won't be surprised in the end.

• International Payment must be in US DOLLARS and buyer pays all conversion costs, etc. 

 

• Payment methods accepted: I Prefer PAYPAL but will also accept POSTAL or BANK MONEY ORDERS, made out to T.J. Hurst. For your protection send Paypal payments designated as "Goods and Services."

 

• $300 DEPOSIT TOWARD THE PAINTING PRICE  is required at the time model is sent to me and is NON-REFUNDABLE for any reason after I have begun work on the model. The balance of painting price, plus charges for any customization and/or prepping, plus shipping/handling charges are due after completion and before I will ship. 

• If Time Payments have been agreed upon I expect them to be paid in a timely manner. If you stop making payments, there will be NO REFUNDS on any payments already made.

• I ship on TUESDAYS, so, for instance, if I receive your payment ON a Tuesday or any day after that, it will be the following Tuesday before I ship. If I receive it by Monday, I can usually ship the very next day.

 

• PROGRESS PICS will be posted on my Facebook page, or if you prefer I will email updates to you frequently. You, as the commissioner, have the option to remain anonymous, of course.

 

• If I don't receive final payment OR hear from you, within 24 HOURS OF COMPLETION, I will assume you have been abducted by aliens and will consider the model abandoned and it will become my personal property to keep, sell or dispose of as I see fit. (But I know you won't let it come to that, will you?:))

 

• The same holds true for purchases of sales pieces that are not commissioned. If you win a bid, make the highest offer, or promise to purchase, but I haven't received word from you or payment sent WITHIN 24 HOURS of sale, I will re-list the model for sale.

 

• I DO check hobby references on MHHR and Facebook Model Horse Transaction Groups and I MAY require two personal references for those not in the hobby. If you have excessive negative "lights" on the transaction boards I will decline your commission. I reserve the right to decline a commission for any reason I deem fitting.

 

• COMMUNICATION IS KEY! Seriously, if you run into a problem and can't meet the deadline, PLEASE let me know - we can work something out. I understand that life happens sometimes. :) However, NO REFUNDS on the DEPOSIT. If for some reason you need to back completely out of the deal after I have begun work on it, but not completed, I will return your model to you (if you provided it) stripped of any work I have done, or perhaps buy it from you.

 

• I reserve the right to use photos of your model and the reference horse as an example of my work in print and/or on the internet.

 

NOTE: POLICIES AND PRICING & SHIPPING CHARGES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT PRIOR NOTICE!

 

So, if all of the above conditions haven't scared you off, please contact me to talk about what you have in mind, or ask me more questions, and so we can exchange contact info. 

 

Email me at Twhinnyacres@gmail.com 

VERY IMPORTANT: I prefer to communicate mostly by email and If you choose to commission me, please send an email with your NAME, and a CONTACT PHONE NUMBER as a backup communication in case email or fb messenger, or my computer goes haywire.

 

All that being said, I hope to hear from you again. :)

 

Thanks in advance, 

T.J. Hurst

AppyArt Studio

Twhinnyacres@gmail.com

 

Mailing Address:

T.J. Hurst

256 Hurst Rd.

Jonesboro, LA 71251